Third Serger Class

A week after the napkin success story I returned to the sewing machine store for the third class in serging. In this week we experimented with several different stitches, some of which required special presser feet. Among the stitches we practiced:

Flatlock stitch: This stitch is what it sounds like: it connects two pieces of fabric with a flat stitch on both side - the "serged" stitch is on one side, while the other looks like a ladder stitch. It is created by serging with a loose tension so that it can be pulled flat. This stitch is used a lot on athletic wear because it is flat and secure on both sides.

An image from the web:

The manual for my machine did not mention this stitch. With the help of the teacher and some of the other students, though, I managed to achieve something that looked pretty close. To wit:

Narrow version on my machine

Wide version on my machine

Again I was reminded that each machine is individual. In my case, the flatlock is not even recognized yet I was able to create a reasonable version of it. 

Gathering foot:

I was not able to use a special foot for this because the store does not stock parts for Janomes.  The gathering (or ruffling) foot can do this:

image from the web

In one step it gathers and attaches to a second piece of fabric. I could not do this. However, the teacher stepped in once again to show me what I could do without a foot:

The bitch of it is, I do not remember how I did this. The settings are the key, but what were those settings? I forgot to write them down on the sample. Well, never mind. Thing is, I know it can be done and if I feel the need I can look it up somewhere and work it out again. More likely, I'll get one of the gathering feet and go on from there.

Blanket stitch:

Machines that can do two-thread sewing can make nice blanket stitches. One example, again from the web:

This illustration even shows the stabilizer material, which can be ripped off or just washed out afterwards.  I tried making a three-thread blanket stitch with a stabilizer:

It really didn't come out well. One thing I might be looking for if I buy a new serger: one that can do two-thread sewing. A bit more on that later.

Piping (or cording):

Using cording feet, some members of our class were able to sew cording to fabric. I tried doing it without a cording foot but failed. Another member used a zipper foot, which I do not yet have for the serger.  Those who used the cording foot came up with results like this:

Well, no, nobody made pillows. But the cording is beautifully sewn when the foot is used. I did not have a foot so did not do a sample. 

This was the last of the three classes. The instructor said there would be a fourth class for those who had machines that could do cover stitches.  My machine can't do those. So this was the end for me.

What I learned is that sergers, even the inexpensive ones, can do more than I thought they could. I am excited about using my serger for more projects and making nicer stitches in general. I also learned that some things are better with machines that can do two-thread stitches, and that coverstitches are good for finishing hems on knits. Knowing what is possible will help me when I do go looking for another serger. And that's another thing: I can see myself having more than one serger, because I could have one set for some type stitch and the other for another. Setting up sergers and getting the stitches right takes longer than getting a standard machine ready to go. 

For me it was worthwhile going to the sewing store for these classes. I was able to focus on one stitch at a time and to get answers to questions I did not know enough to ask. I liked that we spent time getting things right, actually working with our machines on each stitch, so that I know what I can and can't do, and know what settings to use for each. If I were more experienced with a serger I might have found the class tedious, yet those in the class who were seemed to like it as much as I did. 

Yet another shopping bag

Using a pattern I made this shopping bag, complete with pocket in front and doubled handles:

It fits on the racks that are used at the grocery stores for plastic bags. I love making bags. I'm a little kooky about it, I think.

The Second Serger Class

We made napkins in our second serger class.  It took most of the class because we all had to get our rolled hem stitch right before we could get to sewing. 

The teacher showed me her technique for cutting the fabric with a rotary cutter, because I am not skilled with that tool, so my four napkin pieces were quickly cut and ready to go.

Getting the stitch right took quite a bit more time. We installed wooly nylon thread on the upper looper. I had never heard of wooly nylon before taking this class and I sure didn't know what to do with it. For the purposes of our rolled hem stitch, the wooly nylon was used to fill in the gaps in the stitches, to make a smooth surface. 

I followed the settings in my manual and tested it. I had to adjust several times, with the help of the teacher, and finally got a decent stitch. As with all of the different stitches we learned in this class, I kept a sample of the stitch with the settings marked on it.  I now have a small bag full of samples that I refer to when I am trying to get the right settings the first time.  Here's what I learned: every machine is different. Not just every make or model, but every machine. So it pays to test and test until you get what you want.

And this is what I wanted. The finished edge looks professional and neat. I packed up the four napkins and sent them off to daughter Mary (she had requested taupe to go with her dining room). she loves them and I am excited to be able to make such nice finishes.

Serging Ahead

Today I took a class in serging. It was the first of three in a series, held by a sewing machine store in Santa Maria. It was very basic, very nitty-gritty, and I liked that about it. We learned to thread our machines from scratch, we labeled important parts, we sewed three stitches - the four-thread overlock, the three-thread wide overlock, and the three-thread narrow overlock. These last two require that a needle be removed and the thread to that needle unthreaded.

Serging requires detailed attention. It seems funny to me that because of its peculiarities and sensitivities, a serger needs its sewer to pay close attention to the way the stitch looks, to the tension, to numerous details, and this means, really, that one must be patient. Yet one big reason for the desire for sergers is their speed. They so outdistance standard machines in speed that it's stunning. That aspect seems to appeal to the impatient.

Next week we are to bring one yard of fabric and four rolls of wooly nylon thread. We are going to make rolled hems (Linda did show me that on her visit to my house but I would have to dig through my instruction manual to remember just what she did), among other things. The wooly nylon thread is for stretchy fabrics. I had never even heard of that thread before. We will make a set of napkins out of the fabric, so I asked daughter Mary if she'd like some. She said sure, taupe. So I'll find some nice material that's taupe.

I did not love the instructor but I like her approach. She wants us to be very comfortable with our machines. Thus, after we struggled with threading and changing needles she cut all our threads so that we'd have to thread the machine again. I managed to do so faster this second time but the first time I tried a stitch it jammed up part of the machine. I worked it out and solved the problem on my own, always a good sign. I need this kind of instruction to give me confidence.

I suspect many would not enjoy this way of teaching, including many in my regular sewing classes. Instead, they would want to get sewing right away, and learn by making mistakes. That method works as well. It's a little like learning a new language by studying grammar or by learning conversationally. A bit of each is good, I think.

The Duffel Bag!

When last we looked, I had succeeded in creating one end pocket of a duffel bag, using a pattern from The Rainshed:

It had taken me the entire sewing class to get the pieces cut out and to sew that one pocket. But I was proud. It required that I learn to sew that fabric, to attach a zipper pull to zipper tape, to sew through several layers of fairly thick stuff in places. So it was a good start.

Basking in the glow of my accomplishment, I let everything sit at home for a few days. I was thinking about the mesh. Would I be able to sew that without trouble? Finally I sat down at the machine and gave it a try. It sewed! And the machine did not object. So I got the other end of the bag finished. Then added the side pocket to the main bag piece:


So then I had:


The two ends and the start of the middle.

Adding webbing to the bag was next. The pattern shows clearly where it goes and the instructions show a good method for getting it on. Creating the grips for handles came first, then pinning and sewing:


Next came the third - and last - zipper. I had some trouble, as usual, putting the zipper pull on, but finally got it done. The instructions for this bag are very clear and easy to follow, so I soon had the zipper on the main body piece:


Doesn't look so great in this photo but it's fine. You can see the grips better here, too.

Now it was time to get the inner waterproof bag done. This is a bag that is almost the length of the main bag, made of lightweight ripstop nylon. It is accessible from the mesh end of the bag, so one can put wet things in there and they will not get anything inside the bag wet. Here I am sewing the inner bag:



I sewed the inner bag into the main bag, opening to one end. The final work was sewing the two round pocket ends to the main body, topstitching around each pocket, and finally creating the shoulder strap. And here it is!


Fabric pocket end showing.


Close-up of mesh pocket end.


Mesh pocket end showing.

I am not sure if I will want to make something like this again soon, but I learned a lot from it. I learned that I can sew with these unusual materials, that my machine can handle some pretty heavy-duty stuff, and that I can make something presentable and usable. I'll be taking it to the gym tomorrow, proudly.

Fear of Fabric

I started going to a gym again a couple of months ago. I have been making use of various bags for my clothing and realizing I really want something more suitable. So I figured I'd make my own duffel bag. I found a pattern and bought it, but shortly after learned from a friend that a place in Washington, The Rainshed, carries all kinds of waterproof and other specialty fabrics. My friend, who was visiting in Washington at the time, offered to pick up anything I'd like from The Rainshed. So I went online to take a look.

I found that they had a pattern for a duffel bag, too, using fabrics and other materials that could be bought from there. I decided to get everything from there, and compiled my list using their website. I emailed the store to find out if they could put together my order and have my friend pick it up and they said yes, so that's what I did.

I brought everything to my sewing class yesterday. I wasn't about to attempt this project on my own - mainly because I had never sewn with these fabrics before. It uses cordura, ripstop nylon, and mesh. It also calls for zipper tape and pulls that you put on yourself. So this is an adventure.

After I got it all cut out (I worried about the pins but found that my thin pins with plastic round heads are fine) I started to sew. I had purchased suitable needles and thread, too, from The Rainshed, not wanting to leave anything to chance. And what do you know - it sews! I could do it! At least so far. I needed some help getting the zipper pulls onto the zipper tape but I think I'll be able to do it in the future.

Below is what I accomplished yesterday:


It's the end pocket of the duffel bag. Under that flap is a zipper, and those black things are pieces of webbing that I seared with a cigarette lighter to seal, then sewed on. I am inordinately proud of it, mostly because I proved to myself that I could do this. The next challenge is the mesh. I am having some trouble imagining how I sew that together but the instructions are wonderfully detailed so I am hopeful.

Little purses

Several of us in the sewing class have made these little purses. I made these three recently:

They take very little fabric, go together quickly and easily, and are really very handy. I use mine for grocery cards, museum memberships, that sort of thing. Having those cards in a separate bag released my wallet for the credit cards I use most often, making my life easier.

Little projects

Yesterday was the last class of the session so I decided to do some little fun projects. The first was this car trash bag. There are two pockets: the straps obscure the opening of the top one. I am thinking I might use one pocket for recyclables and the other for trash. I also think I sewed that strap on the wrong side of the pocket but I am not going to change it.

The second project was a cute bib. Made of two fabrics, a cotton and a flannel, it closes with velcro. Unfortunately, I packed it up to mail before I took a picture of it. Maybe I will get a pic of it on the actual baby and can then insert that here.

The third project was yet another grocery tote bag! Fun to make, with french seams inside and bias tape on the handles, I didn't quite finish it in class. I added the bias tape last night at home, and the little bit of velcro to the ties this morning:

In rather a klutzy way it folds up so it can be tucked away more easily. I think if it were a lightweight, strong material it would fold better.

A jewelry roll

I made this jewelry roll in sewing class yesterday. It is another of the projects in the One Yard Wonders book. I can make good use of this project because I make many small trips and never have a suitable case for any jewelry. So I rarely bring any along. This way I will have a small assortment of earrings, necklaces, and possibly bracelets.

The roll contains two pockets, each with a zipper, and those ribbon straps in the middle are to hold rings (and then be tied). I don't wear rings so that may find another use.

Here it is folded and tied. I clearly laid out the pattern in the wrong direction - those cats should be face up! But no matter. It works and it looks pretty cool.

Baby Bunting

I made this bunting partly in class, almost two weeks ago, and partly at home. I started it in class because I was afraid of it. By starting it there I can focus better and if I run into issues there is usually somebody who can help me.

I used a Butterick pattern that is designated "very easy". I think this means very easy for an experienced sewer. It was reasonably easy for me, but I had to take time on the zipper and I had a time getting the cuff edges lined up right. As usual, there were places in the directions where I wasn't quite sure what was meant but I did finally work it out. It's good to remember that "very easy" and "very quick" are two different things, also.

A Quick Grocery Bag

Last August I made a shopping bag from a T-shirt, following directions in the book Generation T. See that post.

The directions in the book had me measuring and cutting a shape from the front to make it very much like the plastic bags. That shape bit into the design on the front, however. So those T-shirts that have designs fairly close to the top would not be suitable for that project.

Martha Stewart has another version. You can go to marthastewart.com and hunt it down but I'll tell you the directions right here because it's so easy:

1. Turn the T-shirt inside out. sew the bottom closed, using the seam as a guide.

2. Take a medium-sized mixing bowl (about 9" diameter, more or less). Lay the T-shirt on a flat surface, flat. Place the bowl over the neck opening, making a half-circle shape wider than the neck. Use an air-erasable or water-erasable pen to draw the half-circle onto the T-shirt.

3. Cut out the larger neck opening.

4. Cut off the sleeves along the inside of the seamline.

That's it.

You can, of course, modify it. To make the bag handles narrower I tucked the ends under and sewed a zigzag through the layers. You can also zigzag the raw edges or serge them if you want to get fancy.

Oh, and that's Henry Miller on my t-shirt bag up there. Cool is the goal here.

Coasters

In sewing class I learned a way to make some simple coasters. They are meant for wine glasses but work perfectly well for other glasses and cups. This is a quick, simple project that can use up small pieces of fabric.

Start by cutting five squares of fabric. In this example, the squares are five inches square. They could also be four inches.

Fold and press each of four of the five in half, either on the diagonal or straight across. In this example, it's diagonal:

Now there is one open square and four triangles:

Place one of the triangles on top of the square, lining up the raw edges:

Lay another on top, one quarter turn from the last:

Do the same for the third:

For the fourth, tuck half of the triangle under the first flap:

How it looks (click on the pic for a larger view):

Sew a seam around all four sides. I made it 1/2" You could go with 1/4" if you like:

All sewn:

Clip corners and trim seams:

Turn it inside out - or rather, right-side out. And it's done!

Here is how it looks on a wine glass:

You can wander around the room and set it down wherever and the hostess won't have a fit. This type coaster could also serve as a wine identification tag, if each were different in some way.

Organizing patterns

I have struggled with how to organize my patterns. Where to store them, how to store them, so I can find what I want easily. Then an idea came to me. I have a couple of boxes I bought from Costco that originally contained greeting cards. They were organized by type of card, with dividers. I thought maybe patterns would fit in the space. I was right.

The box. I turned around the dividers to label them with the type pattern:

One box is clearly not enough, as I have many other patterns. My second box still contains greeting cards. So now I am thinking of storing them somewhere else... In the meantime at least some of them are organized.

More pillowcases

I made another pair of pillowcases for Valentine's Day presents. I did the same thing with the appliques that I did on the previous pair, with different fabric.

I really like how they look.

This time I used the instructions in one of my Sewing with Nancy books for the construction of the cases. Here is how it goes:

* Cut out the pieces: in this case I cut two pieces approximately 45" X 27" of the main case fabric, and two of the "cuff" approximately 45" X 9".

* I folded one main piece , selvages matching, right sides together, and stitched the long side seam. I overcast the seam, then ironed it toward the case.

* I stitched the top seam, starting at the fold and catching the folded seam. Overcast the seam. Repeated these steps for the second case.

* I appliqued the cuffs, positioning the pieces on the upper half of the cuff fabric.

* I sewed the cuff side seams, right sides together, after lining them up with the case seam so they would be as close as possible to the same width when sewn.

* I folded the cuff pieces, wrong sides together, raw sides together.

* I sewed the cuffs to the main cases, right sides together. I finished the seam with an overcast stitch.

* I ironed them both.

I am not the best at cutting pieces exactly. That's why I had some trouble matching the pieces when I sewed them together. I think this is a skill I need to work on. Cut carefully and the rest should be easier. In the meantime I think I'll sew the cuffs to the main parts before sewing the side seams in the future. It's just a lot easier for me, although it leaves the finish of the cuff raw edges to deal with. No, wait, seems like that's really not an issue if I just sew them on as above, then do the sides. Yes, that's the trick.