Serging Ahead

Today I took a class in serging. It was the first of three in a series, held by a sewing machine store in Santa Maria. It was very basic, very nitty-gritty, and I liked that about it. We learned to thread our machines from scratch, we labeled important parts, we sewed three stitches - the four-thread overlock, the three-thread wide overlock, and the three-thread narrow overlock. These last two require that a needle be removed and the thread to that needle unthreaded.

Serging requires detailed attention. It seems funny to me that because of its peculiarities and sensitivities, a serger needs its sewer to pay close attention to the way the stitch looks, to the tension, to numerous details, and this means, really, that one must be patient. Yet one big reason for the desire for sergers is their speed. They so outdistance standard machines in speed that it's stunning. That aspect seems to appeal to the impatient.

Next week we are to bring one yard of fabric and four rolls of wooly nylon thread. We are going to make rolled hems (Linda did show me that on her visit to my house but I would have to dig through my instruction manual to remember just what she did), among other things. The wooly nylon thread is for stretchy fabrics. I had never even heard of that thread before. We will make a set of napkins out of the fabric, so I asked daughter Mary if she'd like some. She said sure, taupe. So I'll find some nice material that's taupe.

I did not love the instructor but I like her approach. She wants us to be very comfortable with our machines. Thus, after we struggled with threading and changing needles she cut all our threads so that we'd have to thread the machine again. I managed to do so faster this second time but the first time I tried a stitch it jammed up part of the machine. I worked it out and solved the problem on my own, always a good sign. I need this kind of instruction to give me confidence.

I suspect many would not enjoy this way of teaching, including many in my regular sewing classes. Instead, they would want to get sewing right away, and learn by making mistakes. That method works as well. It's a little like learning a new language by studying grammar or by learning conversationally. A bit of each is good, I think.

On my own again: first "real" project

I came home from my last class with a bunch of patterns and a load of enthusiasm for sewing. I decided to go ahead and make something on my own. I chose a fleece top with collar and zipper and front pocket. It is marked "easy" but it's a step up from what I have done so far with this machine.

Already I am learning some things. I worried about sewing fleece because I didn't know anything about it. I wondered if I should overcast all seam edges. I wondered if I needed a special needle or presser foot. What I have learned so far:

About fleece:
* Fleece doesn't ravel. I guess I should have figured that out just from looking at it. But hey! So I do not need to overcast edges. I can if I want, though, for a nice appearance and to reduce a bit of the bulk.
* I can use a universal needle.
* It's best to reduce the pressure of the presser foot for thick fabrics like fleece. My machine has a dial I can turn to reduce or increase pressure. For thin fabrics it's best to up the pressure. I have learned from webpages that if you do not have a machine that allows changes in pressure it is no big deal, however.
* There is a right side and a wrong side. Honestly, I did not know that and did not do what I should have when I laid out the patterns to determine which side was which. I am flying blind here, but next time I'll know to check.
* Fleece is susceptible to heat. Pressing is not recommended. If needed, one can use a damp press cloth or steam from above.

So far I have the pieces cut out and have sewn several seams. It is going well so far.

Sixth - last - class

Last night was the last beginner's sewing class. Because I finished my pajama pants at home I brought in something else to work on. My friend Paul had obtained four pairs of slacks that were too short and he asked if I could let down the hems (including some cuffs). I said sure! I wasn't sure if I'd run into something unexpected so I brought them to class.

Others worked on different projects. Linda passed out cute little measuring tapes as last-class gifts. She also brought out patterns we could buy and some we could just take if we wanted. The free ones were elderly - "vintage", as she called them. I took a couple of those and bought 11 of the others at $1 each. I also bought a lovely pair of sewing shears - see below.

After diddling around with patterns and so on I set to work on the slacks. Most of my time was spent taking out stitching and ironing the new hem up. I decided to use the blind hem stitch, which is pretty much the same as the one I had on my last sewing machine, years ago. Except that on this machine I got to use a special presser foot that made it easier to do the hem well. Even with this help I missed bits of each hem and had to go over them again. No biggie, though. By the end of the class I had finished two pairs of slacks and they both looked good. I felt good. I think that being in a separate place gave me more of an inclination to do this work, to take the time, too, as opposed to sitting at home, susceptible to interruption and distraction.

One of the young girls was making more mistakes and had to rip out a lot of what she'd done. Somebody asked why she kept doing this and she said she did not know. I said, to the class in general, that in junior high I had done just terribly. I hadn't even finished the apron, and my seams were horrifying. Another woman in the class said her junior high sewing experience was so traumatic she went through years of therapy because of it and she is just now, with Linda's help, coming out of it (of course there was a hint of exaggeration here). The girls' mother said this is why she wanted her children in this class, so they wouldn't have to go through that. And Linda told the story of some young girls in another class of hers where the moms were the problem. It was a kick, having that conversation.

Today I finished off the other two pairs of slacks. This is good experience. On one pair I needed to do a new overcast stitch on the raw edge, which was also good experience.

All of these positive experiences have given me confidence. I went through the patterns and chose one I decided to make. It's a fleece pullover with zipper and pocket and collar. More than I have been doing up to this point. But I read through the instructions and I feel I can do it. So I went out to get material and notions and I am ready to start.

My first lesson

This last Monday, June 22, I drove back down to Santa Barbara for my first freebie lesson on using my new machine. Susan set me up on the table inside the shop and showed me several different seams, which I made one at a time on small pieces of fabric she had cut. She also told me about thread (the higher the number the thinner the thread; cotton threads have sizes on the spools but polyester does not; get better-quality thread so it holds up and does not break; different threads are suitable for different types of sewing and fabrics) and a bit about needles (sharps and "universal" - rounded tips - and something else - leather needles, which stab the fabric).

I used different presser feet for the different seams and got pretty good at changing them (it is very easy). She then showed me how to make a buttonhole (one step!!) and sew on a button.



An overcast seam


French seam


Flat felled seam


Two different stitches that are good on knits


Button and buttonhole

The sewing machine: a first step

For months I had dipped in and out of my search for a new sewing machine. After reading several reviews on consumersearch.com, consumer reports, and Amazon, I decided the Project Runway models looked about right for me. The reviewers said they were sturdy machines with versatility that were easy to use and did not get out of adjustment often. Sounded about right. On the other hand, there were some complaints about the automatic raising of the needle at the end of sewing, which concerned me a little. I figured I could ask.

Next, where to buy from? I considered ordering one online. I discussed machines with a friend who is always sewing, and she recommended a store in Santa Barbara. Santa Barbara is almost 100 miles from where I live but there are no sewing machines in my area any more. My friend Maryann has gone to this store for years and values their expertise and assistance. For a newbie getting back to sewing I realized it would be a good idea for me to find a knowledgeable person in a good store who could help me choose a machine and who could answer questions.

When I talked about getting a machine with my older daughter Elaine, she said she is interested in getting a new one herself, and she wants to get one that comes with classes so she can learn to use it right. That too sounded like a good plan. I decided to ask about classes when I went to the store in Santa Barbara.

About two weeks ago I drove down to Santa Barbara to Grant House. I met Susan there, and explained what I was looking for. I said I was new to sewing, needed something easy to use with some flexibility for different types of projects. I said I had looked at the Project Runway models and found them interesting. She showed me another Brother model that was similar to the Project Runway models but better. I tried things on the machine, asked questions, heard what she had to say about it, asked how it compared to the others, and finally decided it was a good choice. I bought it. I asked about lessons. Susan said she would be happy to schedule a time for me to get acquainted with the machine. She'd show me some seams, stitches, give me some information on sewing on that machine. So I signed up.

my new sewing machine

While I was waiting for the day to arrive, I stopped in at several fabric stores. I ran into things called "fat quarters" and I had trouble finding scissors. When I asked about fusible web I found there were many kinds and I had no idea what I wanted. I felt like I was in a foreign land without a guidebook. Fortunately, one of the clerks told me about fat quarters (and chubby eighths!) and reassured me that I would pick it all up quickly enough. I hope so.