Third Serger Class

A week after the napkin success story I returned to the sewing machine store for the third class in serging. In this week we experimented with several different stitches, some of which required special presser feet. Among the stitches we practiced:

Flatlock stitch: This stitch is what it sounds like: it connects two pieces of fabric with a flat stitch on both side - the "serged" stitch is on one side, while the other looks like a ladder stitch. It is created by serging with a loose tension so that it can be pulled flat. This stitch is used a lot on athletic wear because it is flat and secure on both sides.

An image from the web:

The manual for my machine did not mention this stitch. With the help of the teacher and some of the other students, though, I managed to achieve something that looked pretty close. To wit:

Narrow version on my machine

Wide version on my machine

Again I was reminded that each machine is individual. In my case, the flatlock is not even recognized yet I was able to create a reasonable version of it. 

Gathering foot:

I was not able to use a special foot for this because the store does not stock parts for Janomes.  The gathering (or ruffling) foot can do this:

image from the web

In one step it gathers and attaches to a second piece of fabric. I could not do this. However, the teacher stepped in once again to show me what I could do without a foot:

The bitch of it is, I do not remember how I did this. The settings are the key, but what were those settings? I forgot to write them down on the sample. Well, never mind. Thing is, I know it can be done and if I feel the need I can look it up somewhere and work it out again. More likely, I'll get one of the gathering feet and go on from there.

Blanket stitch:

Machines that can do two-thread sewing can make nice blanket stitches. One example, again from the web:

This illustration even shows the stabilizer material, which can be ripped off or just washed out afterwards.  I tried making a three-thread blanket stitch with a stabilizer:

It really didn't come out well. One thing I might be looking for if I buy a new serger: one that can do two-thread sewing. A bit more on that later.

Piping (or cording):

Using cording feet, some members of our class were able to sew cording to fabric. I tried doing it without a cording foot but failed. Another member used a zipper foot, which I do not yet have for the serger.  Those who used the cording foot came up with results like this:

Well, no, nobody made pillows. But the cording is beautifully sewn when the foot is used. I did not have a foot so did not do a sample. 

This was the last of the three classes. The instructor said there would be a fourth class for those who had machines that could do cover stitches.  My machine can't do those. So this was the end for me.

What I learned is that sergers, even the inexpensive ones, can do more than I thought they could. I am excited about using my serger for more projects and making nicer stitches in general. I also learned that some things are better with machines that can do two-thread stitches, and that coverstitches are good for finishing hems on knits. Knowing what is possible will help me when I do go looking for another serger. And that's another thing: I can see myself having more than one serger, because I could have one set for some type stitch and the other for another. Setting up sergers and getting the stitches right takes longer than getting a standard machine ready to go. 

For me it was worthwhile going to the sewing store for these classes. I was able to focus on one stitch at a time and to get answers to questions I did not know enough to ask. I liked that we spent time getting things right, actually working with our machines on each stitch, so that I know what I can and can't do, and know what settings to use for each. If I were more experienced with a serger I might have found the class tedious, yet those in the class who were seemed to like it as much as I did. 

Yet another shopping bag

Using a pattern I made this shopping bag, complete with pocket in front and doubled handles:

It fits on the racks that are used at the grocery stores for plastic bags. I love making bags. I'm a little kooky about it, I think.

The Second Serger Class

We made napkins in our second serger class.  It took most of the class because we all had to get our rolled hem stitch right before we could get to sewing. 

The teacher showed me her technique for cutting the fabric with a rotary cutter, because I am not skilled with that tool, so my four napkin pieces were quickly cut and ready to go.

Getting the stitch right took quite a bit more time. We installed wooly nylon thread on the upper looper. I had never heard of wooly nylon before taking this class and I sure didn't know what to do with it. For the purposes of our rolled hem stitch, the wooly nylon was used to fill in the gaps in the stitches, to make a smooth surface. 

I followed the settings in my manual and tested it. I had to adjust several times, with the help of the teacher, and finally got a decent stitch. As with all of the different stitches we learned in this class, I kept a sample of the stitch with the settings marked on it.  I now have a small bag full of samples that I refer to when I am trying to get the right settings the first time.  Here's what I learned: every machine is different. Not just every make or model, but every machine. So it pays to test and test until you get what you want.

And this is what I wanted. The finished edge looks professional and neat. I packed up the four napkins and sent them off to daughter Mary (she had requested taupe to go with her dining room). she loves them and I am excited to be able to make such nice finishes.